Tuesday, October 15, 2024

Part Four - Dressing Marilyn

In mid-2010, Hansford excitedly told me a publisher was interested in a series of small books, one each devoted to the Pink, Red, Gold, and White Marilyn dresses with sketches, photographs, and background information on each garment. I suggested making it one book, expanding the content beyond what the Estate possessed to include pieces from other collectors. Over the following months, I sent him a detailed list and bits for the book of things I thought useful and found during my research.


An opportunity for publicity for both the Estate and his book presented itself when, on May 18, 2011, a press release and website premiered from InQuicity for their “Save the Dress” Campaign about a group that formed to purchase the white Seven Year Itch dress that was coming up for auction in the first Debbie Reynolds sale. If successful, "the dress will become the focal point of a multi-city nationwide tour, before being placed on permanent display in New York."

Their May 25 Facebook post announced the Travilla Estate's approval and partnership. On June 1, 2011, Marilyn's birthday, Andrew appeared at the press event held at the actual filming site on Lexington Avenue, bringing the Estate's copy of the longer-hem dress. (The exact spot courtesy of moi.) DNAInfo noted, "Andrew Hansford, the curator of the Travilla estate who brought the replica dress, read notes from the designer about making the dress."'I had to portray Marilyn as pure and lovely, almost like talcum powder,'" Hansford said. The designer considered it a "silly little dress," Hansford acknowledged, "But Marilyn adored it. It made her an international icon.'"

The publicity worked, and donations poured in. Still, there was a "no refunds" kerfuffle with the plan to donate money received to various charities by the three-person Board of Advisors (on which Andrew sat.) The issue was resolved after an inquiry by and attention from the OriginalPropBlog's Jason DeBord. With a top unsuccessful bid of $2.2 million, the SaveTheDress campaign died a valiant effort. The status of refunds is unknown. 

Dressing Marilyn: How a Hollywood Icon Was Styled by William Travilla debuted in the Fall of 2011 in the United Kingdom. (The US version would be released in April 2012.)  The UK press party was a rousing success and I eagerly awaited my pre-ordered Amazon copy. 



Strictly Come Dancing's Kristina Rihanoff models the gold lame gown
at the Dressing Marilyn UK book release.


Promoting the book on British morning television.

When it arrived, I devoured it in one sitting. At 191 pages, it was filled with lush color photographs of the sketches, costumes, and vintage photos. I was even listed third in the Thank Yous section for my contributions, many of which made publication.
.

But overall, it was very disappointing for one big reason. (Please see the Undressing Dressing Marilyn entry for a more detailed list of issues.)

It was based on lies. Not half-truths, misinformation, or gossip. Lies.

Disregarding proof from as far back as 2007 with Bellinghaus's blogs, Hansford chose to rewrite the history of the exhibition scandal regarding the authenticity of the gowns and continue the false narrative that the dresses were prototypes created before the final film versions. 

Surprise. Mark Bellinghaus was right. They weren't Marilyn-worn or from the early 1950s. They were "traveling" copies made in the 1960s that the designer would take to various functions and fashion shows. Travilla seamstresses made them from patterns in the Travilla studio under Travilla's direction, just not as presented to the public.



The Estate's duplicate Itch copy had been offered by Profiles in History in their December 2004 Hollywood Auction #20. The sales centerpiece was the "Lost Collection of William Travilla," with the backstory. These were the few remaining sketches in the Estate's possession, discovered under the bed of Travilla's partner, William Sarris. In addition to the dress, the catalog featured roughly two dozen sketches, including Travilla's sketch of the white dress, which, surprisingly, didn't sell. However, the dress did go to a collector in Spain.




The Pink Diamonds dress (and sketch) were offered with little fanfare in Profiles' July 2005 Auction #22. (Neither sold and were returned to the Estate.) 




The same low key sale of the Gold Lame dress in their March 2006 Auction #24. Unsold, like the pink dress, and was returned to the Estate until sent to Hansford in 2007.

Model wearing a gold lame in 1988 newspaper publicity photograph.

In fact, the Estate's gold lame may not have been a traveling copy but a retail version. A check on 1stdibs.com reveals not one, not two, but three different listings for three different copies of the gold lame that have sold.





As for the Estate having any actual Monroe dresses, film or personal was answered in November 1981, Travilla admitted to the Atlanta Constitution that he had no Marilyn Monroe costumes in his possession and had to borrow a few from John Lebold and Debbie Reynolds to bring to a lavish event in his honor.


More evidence was an interview Sarris gave in 2000 to FashionFinds.com's Gina Cooper for The Making of The Thorn Birds, in which he revealed what remained after a 1991 fire ripped through Travilla, Inc.

GC: "I know you had a fire, so you don't have much left."

SARRIS:"I have five Marilyn sketches, one of them being the Seven Year Itch dress, but none of her dresses. I've got a total of forty-five drawings, actually, but I mean of his whole career. My archive dresses don't go back that far [the 1950s]. Everything early we created burned up."

While disconcerting, Sarris misinformation about the number of sketches could've been to stave off any leeches.


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